Ordering a custom dress is one of the most rewarding ways to get a garment that truly feels like you. It’s also a process many people haven’t experienced before—so it helps to know what happens, what you’ll need to decide, and how to make the collaboration smooth from the very first message.
I’m Elizabeth Stewart Clark, a dress designer and sewing specialist. Here’s how a typical custom dress journey works, what to expect at each stage, and how to set yourself up for the best result.
Step 1: Start with the occasion, the feeling, and the timeline
A custom dress begins with context. Before we talk about details, I want to know the basics: what the event is, when it happens, and how you want to feel in the dress. Confident and minimal? Romantic and soft? Structured and dramatic? These “mood” choices guide everything from silhouette to fabric.
Timeline matters more than most people expect. A custom dress isn’t just sewing—it’s design, pattern work, fittings, and finishing. If you have a fixed date, reach out early so there’s room for thoughtful adjustments instead of rushed decisions.
Step 2: Collect inspiration the right way
You don’t need a perfect reference image, but it helps to gather a few examples of what you like—necklines, sleeves, skirt shapes, waist placement, fabric textures, and overall vibe. The key is to describe what you like about each reference, not only share the image.
For example: “I love the clean neckline,” “I want that fitted waist with a softer skirt,” or “I like how this fabric drapes.” This helps me translate inspiration into a design that fits your body and your occasion, rather than copying something that may not work the same way in real life.
Step 3: Design and silhouette decisions that affect everything
Once the direction is clear, we define the silhouette. This is where dressmaking becomes very personal: proportions, comfort, movement, and how the dress will look from every angle.
A few choices that shape the entire build:
- fitted vs. relaxed bodice
- structured vs. draped fabric behavior
- skirt volume (straight, A-line, full)
- sleeves/straps and how they support
- length and footwear considerations
The goal is to make the dress feel balanced on you—not just attractive in a photo.
Step 4: Fabric selection (where the dress becomes real)
Fabric isn’t a finishing detail. Fabric is the dress. It determines drape, structure, comfort, and how the piece photographs. Two dresses with the same pattern can look completely different depending on material.
When choosing fabric, I think about:
how it moves, how it holds shape, how it feels on skin, and how it behaves over time. We also consider lining, closures, and any elements that support the fit—because a beautiful silhouette often relies on what’s inside the garment.
Step 5: Patternmaking and the first build
This is where a custom dress separates itself from off-the-rack. Pattern work is the blueprint. It’s shaped to your measurements and refined through fittings. The first version is usually about structure and fit—making sure the dress sits correctly, supports where needed, and feels comfortable.
This stage is also where small changes are easiest. Adjusting neckline depth, waist placement, or skirt volume is much smoother early in the build than after the final finishing.
Step 6: Fittings (the part that creates “made for you”)
Fittings are where the magic happens. This is when the dress becomes yours—fine-tuning shape, length, and comfort.
A good fitting experience is not about being “perfect.” It’s about seeing how the garment behaves when you move, sit, and breathe. The right dress should feel secure without feeling restrictive, and polished without feeling stiff.
If you’re preparing for fittings, wear the undergarments and shoes you plan to use, or bring close equivalents. It helps us refine the final proportions accurately.
Step 7: Finishing details that elevate the final result
Once fit is right, we move into finishing: seams, linings, closures, hems, and the details that look subtle but feel expensive. Clean finishing is the difference between “custom” and “couture-inspired.”
These details also affect durability. A well-finished dress holds its shape, wears comfortably, and looks refined under real lighting—not just in studio photos.
What impacts pricing for a custom dress?
Custom dress pricing isn’t only about time. It’s also about complexity and materials. Things that commonly increase cost include heavy structure, intricate draping, delicate fabrics, complex sleeves, embellishment, and multiple fittings.
The most helpful way to keep a project on budget is to be clear about priorities: what must be perfect, what can be simplified, and what details matter most to you.
The best custom dresses are a collaboration
A custom dress is a creative partnership. The best outcomes happen when there’s clear communication, enough timeline flexibility, and a shared focus on how the dress should feel on your body—not just how it looks on a hanger.
If you’re thinking about commissioning a custom dress, I’d love to hear about your occasion and your vision. Send me your timeline and inspiration, and we’ll map the best next steps—from first concept to final fitting.